I don't remember exactly how we set our sights on Евпатория. (Євпаторія in Ukrainian. say: "Eve-patoria") I already planned to do Crimea because I was writing someone in Симферополь and I was to accept delivery of my motorcycle in Одесса, nearby.
It had become a "two up" ride. I prefer to ride solo but I invited Жанна and I am a man of my word. I really enjoy her company and her bilingual abilities were quite useful.
It had to do with her beach bathing sun worship and our desire to see a dolphin show. There are dolphinariums in many shore towns along the Черное Море. (Black Sea) We had previously been frustrated by sold out shows or bad timing. We had been advised that they are plentiful in seaside resort communities in Крым.
We had done an overnight in Армянск and decided to head for Евпатория for those reasons, I guess.
My Suzuki is not a touring bike per se. But, the suspension makes it a better ride than a Cadillac. Жанна is no tomboy. She is a very feminine woman. She's not your typical biker type. She's concerned about things like nails and hairdo. I always knew when it was time to pull over by the severity of the emotional explosion erupting behind me.
By the time we rolled into Евпатория we were both ready to find lodging and take a rest. It was difficult at first because she is nearsighted. But, I began to be able to read the signs. Then, Жанна could negotiate in Russian. We found a nice place owned by an elderly Jewish lady named Laura.
All of these places along the Black Sea had a very Mediterranean feel about them and were shaded with grape arbors. Here, the several separate cottages were dry, but shared a common courtyard. There was a communal shower and roofed, but otherwise open, kitchenette. It was quite cozy and comfortable.
Once we settled in, we explored. There was a beach for Жанна within walking distance. In another direction there was a park, also within walking distance. Beyond that, there is a beach with a boardwalk/promenade with all the restaurants and amusement park rides. Also, this is where we found the dolphinarium. This area was kind of "G rated" family oriented, but it became a real party town at night.
In yet another direction I found the marina area. There, I found ATM machines and an Internet cafe where I could continue my business back in Wyoming. This was a little further but I could walk it or use the trolley. I preferred to ride my motorcycle.
Жанна and I went out to play at night. We partied, drank, ate and danced. I watched an amazing transformation take over her! She was really getting into the biker image and was actually proud and bragging about being one, and of her American biker boyfriend!
Both American and Ukrainian embassies issue caveats about avoiding becoming a crime victim. Specifically, don't drink with the locals and avoid dark alleys late at night. I managed to get into a drunken brawl in a dark corner of the park at about 2:00AM. This old, American biker tramp did OK against 3 of them. But, I broke a front tooth while hitting someone's fist with my face.
In addition, I was subjected to a bar room challenge that night about being a REAL biker. So, I took a couple of them for a ride on the cobblestones between the trolley tracks. We did the curve at about 55mph in the damp seaside air. They each in turn jumped off and ran to the bushes with sudden urges involving bodily functions. I guess they never rode a real roller coaster. This was another time I was happy to be on such a good handling motorcycle.
Жанна and I got home OK, that night. Laura was a little upset about the ruckus. She was out there in her nightgown which was frightening to everyone. I just don't know how to have a quiet donnybrook even when it is expected.
Евпатория is a party town but it can be a rough town. My best advice is to follow the recommendations of the embassy.
The following day we went to the dolphinarium. Because we only came an half hour early we got terrible seats. Жанна and I split up so she could get one a little closer. It was her first time and she was delighted.
That day, I witnessed yet another side of her. She was genuinely concerned about my condition resulting from the night before! I didn't want to be fawned over. It was nothing but a hangover with a shiner and a tooth issue.
The next day I got a root canal and a crown. It took two days, actually. My Ukrainian dentist was, of course, a drop dead gorgeous woman. But, no one spoke English. So, Жанна was nearby as I reclined in the chair. No dentist has ever been more gentle and concerned for my comfort, than this one.
I tried to tell her there was no pain, but she gave me a bunch of pills, anyway. These ultimately caused me trouble in the USA. Pain or no pain, I should never have taken them in a place as uptight as Wyoming. I have since lost the crown but I think they saved my tooth.
We were there for a total of four days. I had enough "relaxation." My black eye was fading away. We decided to proceed down the coast toward Севастополь. Our pursuit of economy seaside lodging proved frustrating. We turned toward Симферополь.
One more emotional back seat melt down and a ride through Симферополь brought us to the train station....
